It was a tranquil and bright morning in August 2024. A mild wind blew through Kupang, the capital city of East Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia.

At 06.15 am, the CNN Indonesia and Konservasi Indonesia teams boarded a boat in Kupang’s Tenau Harbor, to dive in two nearby sites, in search of the region’s brilliant coral reefs.

The winds picked up, knocking the boats around the dock. There was a quiet hush around the group; the Meteorology, Climatology and Geophysics Agency (BMKG) had predicted strong winds throughout NTT that day.

Diving in windy weather is not generally recommended. The wind can cause stronger surges under water, making diving challenging.

Luckily, as we took to the sea, the wind weakened, and waves calmed. We continued towards our target dive sites.

After 20 minutes, we reached our first dive site, not far from the dock.

Meizani Irmadhiany, Senior Vice President & Executive Chair of Konservasi Indonesia, sunk beneath the waves with two other divers to explore the reef.

Konservasi Indonesia is a national organization that works toward sustainable development and environment conservation in Indonesia. Konservasi Indonesia collaborates with many partners throughout the country, including local and national government.

Together with partners, Konservasi Indonesia designs and promotes nature-based and innovative solutions for landscape and seascape management that are sustainable and integrated with local communities and support government goals.

That morning, we dove into the waters off Kupang to explore the vibrant marine ecosystem, including coral reefs and various sea life.

Our first dive lasted about an hour. Afterward, the boat sailed to the next location near Semau Island, just a short 10-minute journey away.

A striking contrast awaited us at the second diving site. The water shimmered brilliant emerald-green, crystal clear and shallow enough that we could admire the coral reef and seafloor from the boat, without even needing to go underwater.

The team dove in, spending the same amount of time exploring as they had at the first site. When the divers resurfaced, their expressions were even happier.

“We dove two very different sites. The first was closer to town, so the coral and marine life were noticeably different from what we saw at the second site,” Meizani explained after returning to the boat.

She added that the first spot is located a hundred meters from passing ships, and not all of the corals there were healthy. It seems like the area is a favorite for local fisherman to place their bubu; a type of wooden trap submerged to catch fish.

The coral reefs appeared much healthier at the second site. Meizani mentioned that during their dive, which reached a depth of 20 meters, she saw a variety of large coral formations, including gorgonians, sea fans, sponge coral, and others.

“We’ve observed that despite Kupang’s rapid economic growth over the past 5 to 10 years, its coastal ecosystem remains in good condition. The corals and marine life are well preserved,” said Meizani.

Still, she acknowledged that the presence of some ruptured and bleached corals in certain areas is a warning sign for Kupang’s marine environment.

The US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) has identified several key threats to coral reef health, with most linked to human activity.

On its website , NOAA reports that human, or anthropogenic, activity is the primary threat to coral reefs. This includes pollution, overfishing, destructive fishing practices like using explosives or cyanide, collecting live coral for aquariums, mining coral for building materials, and the effects of a warming climate.

However, other factors have also significantly impacted the coral reefs in Kupang waters.

One notable cause was the Seroja Storm (Badai Seroja), which struck Kupang in 2021. The storm not only devastated the land but also severely affected marine life, including the coral reef ecosystem.

“On Kupang’s beaches, especially the open and the exposed areas, we found coral reef fragments caused by the Seroja Storm. Of course, climate change is another contributing factor. Rising sea temperatures are also impacting the coral reefs,” Meizani explains.

Imam Fauzi, Head of National Marine Conservation Area Hall (BKKPN) Kupang, acknowledged that the Seroja Storm was a major factor in damaging Kupang’s coral reefs, particularly in the Sawu Sea National Park, located between Sumba, Sawu, Rote, Timor, and Flores islands.

BKKPN data shows that before the storm, coral cover at Dengka Island observation station was 22 percent. After Seroja, this number plummeted to only 0,53 percent.

Fortunately, natural recovery has begun. Coral cover increased to 1,07 percent by 2022, and to 3,80 percent by 2023.

Coral cover refers to the proportion of an area occupied by coral, and serves a key indicator of the health of the marine ecosystem.

“Seroja Storm had a severe and extreme impact on the ecosystem, including in Rote. Many corals were overturned, broken, or destroyed by its force," said Imam.

Changes in coral reefs affect not only the marine ecosystem but also life beyond the sea, presenting challenges for coastal communities that rely on seaweed cultivation.

Imam explained that coral reef damage also impacts the broader biodiversity in Kupang waters.

“There is a direct connection between the health of the marine ecosystem and seaweed cultivation. A damaged ecosystem raises concerns about the overall condition of the water,” said Imam.

That August morning, Semuel Lai, known as Semmy, harvested his seaweed at Oesina Beach, located 28 kilometers from Kupang. Using his small boat, he transported his seaweed harvest that had been cultivated for about 40 days.

On a typical day, Semmy makes two to three trips to his ‘farm’ for harvesting before drying the seaweed on racks. If the weather is sunny, the drying process takes only three to four days. However, if it is rainy, it can take up to five days or even a week.

Seaweed cultivation along the Kupang coast is typically a group effort, involving both men and women. Male farmers like Semmy, are usually responsible for planting, tending and harvesting, while women typically handle tasks such as tying the seeds to the lines and drying the seaweed.

On the western tip of Timor Island, Semmy’s daughter often assists him with the harvesting. Together they bring the freshly harvested seaweed ashore to dry in the sun.

East Nusa Tenggara (NTT) is recognized as one of the five largest seaweed-producing provinces in Indonesia.

According to the Central Statistics Agency (BPS), seaweed production in NTT reached 2,158,903 tons in 2020, placing it just behind South Sulawesi, the country’s leading seaweed producing province, producing 2,432,300 tons. Central Sulawesi ranks third with 921,480 tons, followed by West Nusa Tenggara with 648,889 tons and North Kalimantan with 523,258 tons.

Semmy shared that he has benefitted from the seaweed farming business in Kupang, which was first introduced by Ibrahim Agustinus Medah, the Regent of Kupang from 1999 to 2004.

In the early 2000s, Ibrahim Medah distributed seaweed seeds to coastal communities in Kupang and Semmy was among the recipients who reaped profitable rewards.

"I was very proud of my effort and income from the seaweed business at that time. Not only could I send my children to school, I could also afford a pickup truck," said Semmy, a resident of Lifuleo Village.

The years from 2000 to 2008 were a golden period for seaweed farmers in NTT, including those in Kupang. Farmers could earn up to IDR 40 million from a single harvest, with the potential for four of five harvests each year.

However, this golden era came to an end in 2009. The Montara oil spill from a Thai company severely impacted seaweed production, halving prices from IDR 20,000 to IDR 10,000 per kilogram.

“In 2009, we encountered the Montara oil spill. At first, the farmers didn’t notice anything wrong, but research from the district, provincial and central authorities later revealed that the waters were polluted with oil. We suffered from this until 2015," admitted Melky Bolla, Chair of the Dale Hitu Farmers Group from Tablolong Village.

After the Montara oil spill, seaweed farmers in Kupang tried to recover and prices have begun to slowly rise. However, Melky noted that despite these recovery efforts, seaweed cultivation in Kupang has yet to regain its former glory.

"We noticed that seaweed growth is not the same as it was from 1999 to 2008," he said.

The Montara oil spill was not the only challenge faced by farmers. The emergence of pests and “ice-ice” disease has also hindered their ability to achieve satisfactory harvests.

Symptoms of “ice-ice” disease include appearance of white spots on the thallus, stems or leaves, causing the seaweed to lose its color, turn white, and ultimately break apart.

Triana, a resident of Tablolong Village and a seaweed farmer, expressed her concerns about “ice-ice” disease, which causes nearly all the seaweed to turn white, rendering the harvest unsellable and giving the farmers a significant headache.

"In the past, the disease only caused part of the seaweed to turn white, but this year the seaweed is completely damaged, so we may not be able to harvest anything at all," Triana explained.

Another factor impacting farmers’ income is the selling price of seaweed in Kupang, which is regulated by local government policy.

For example, in 2021 the selling price of seaweed in Kupang reached IDR 40,000 per kilogram. However, NTT Governor Regulation Number 39 of 2022 concerning Fishery Product Trade, prohibits the export of seaweed outside NTT, causing the price to plummet. Since the regulation was signed by NTT Governor Victor Bungtilo Laiskodat, the selling price of seaweed has fallen to IDR 13 - 15 thousand per kilogram.

Konservasi Indonesia sees great potential in seaweed cultivation in NTT, particularly in Kupang. NTT’s seaweed production capacity is not only one of the largest domestically, but also globally and can significantly influence the world’s seaweed supply chain.

Meizani noted that coastal communities and seaweed cultivation are closely linked to coral reefs. Given this, Konservasi Indonesia has established a presence in NTT to strengthen coral reef ecosystems, which will ultimately benefit coastal communities.

“The primary goal is for coastal communities and local governments to develop the area sustainably, protecting coral reefs while promoting economic activities related to them,” she said.

Various research initiatives conducted by Konservasi Indonesia in collaboration with local universities, including Nusa Cendana University and Artha Wacana Christian University in Kupang, aim to provide scientific foundations for national and regional governments in creating policies and programs for communities and ecosystems.

The overarching mission is to support ecosystem protection while enhancing community productivity.

Hopes for improving seaweed cultivation and preserving coral reefs in Kupang waters have grown with the signing of a debt swap agreement between the Government of Indonesia and the Government of United States under the Tropical Forest and Coral Reef Conservation Act (TFCCA) program.

This debt swap program for nature conservation will focus on preserving coral reef ecosystems in the Lesser Sunda region (including NTT waters), the Bird's Head Seascape in Papua, and the Banda Sea. This agreement entails the cancellation of US$35 million (approximately Rp565,53 billion) of Indonesia’s debt in exchange for coral reef conservation efforts of the same value.

Konservasi Indonesia is part of the Oversight Committee which is responsible for compiling, directing, and supervising the TFCCA program. The TFCCA not only aims to establish new Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) and improve the performance of existing MPAs but also focuses on empowering communities, strengthening and increasing the capacity of conservation organizations, including central and regional government staff responsible for managing coral reefs.

Another key focus area is the rehabilitation of coral reefs and associated ecosystems such as mangroves and seagrass beds. Seaweed, as one marine cultivation system, is an integral part of the marine ecosystem.

“One of our main challenges in managing conservation areas and empowering communities is securing substantial financial resources. We believe that funds generated from this debt swap will improve conditions for coral reef conservation both within and beyond designated areas, while also supporting sustainable economic systems in the region,” said Meizani.

She emphasized that Konservasi Indonesia works as a partner for the government, not as a beneficiary or recipient of benefits under this agreement. "The real beneficiaries will be those in the region, including NGOs and universities that partner in managing and conserving coral reefs and sustainable economic systems, ultimately leading to a positive impact on the coral reef ecosystem," she confirmed.

Since 2022, Konservasi Indonesia has promoted sustainable business practices and innovative conservation funding through the TeKSI (Terumbu Karang Sehat Indonesia) program, in partnership with Conservation International and supported by GFCR (Global Fund for Coral Reefs).